Another early start and a train from Milano Centrale, this time to Varenna on the eastern shore of Lake Como. We managed this despite being assured by the lady at the ticket office that it was not possible. At least we think that’s what she said. She spoke no English and so Sue conducted the conversation in French.

Our first exploration was a short stroll to the Castello Vezio. The sign said 0.50. Only half a kilometre, so we set off up the hill. We later discovered that the 0.50km was in fact 0 hours and 50 minutes. To compound things we managed to miss a turn somewhere and climbed much higher than we needed to, up the wrong hill.

Eventually we emerged from the autumn woodland into the village of Vezio and the breathtaking views from the castle.

The castle ghosts are apparently made each year when volunteers are coated in plaster of Paris. They are destroyed by the snow in winter – the ghosts not the volunteers.


The castle ghosts are apparently made each year when volunteers are coated in plaster of Paris. They are destroyed by the snow in winter – the ghosts not the volunteers.

After a much shorter trip down the hill into Varenna we took the ferry across the lake to Belaggio via Menaggio on the opposite shores. Lake Como has been a rich persons playground since Roman times so the water front is peppered with grande mansions and fancy hotels, cafés and restaurants.

After half an hour on the outside seats of the ferry we were ready for a warm lunch in the first establishment we could find. With kiwi passports in our pocket we couldn’t walk past this place.