The six hour car ride from Agra to Jaipur was broken with two sightseeing stops – Fatehpur Sikri, 40 km west of Agra, and Chand Baori, closer to Jaipur.

The red sandstone, 16th century city of Fatehpur Sikri, was our third UNESCO World Heritage site on this trip.

The history and sights were all explained by a local guide who ambushed us in the car park, presented a dubious ‘guide ID’ and proceeded to escort us around the complex. We were sure he had some kind of ruse going with the entrance guards since we paid him but no payment seemed to be made at the gate.

Despite our misgivings, he gave an informative tour and we could feel pleased about contributing to the local (black) economy!

Chand Baori is a stepped well build over a thousand years ago. Definitely worth a short detour from the main Agra-Jaipur ‘highway’. It has featured in several movies including The Dark Knight Rises and Best Exotic Marigold Hotel.

We turned down the services of a guide at the entrance, managed the 10 minute tour ourselves and refused to tip the man at the gate who asked us to compete a visitors book. Are we getting acclimatised to India?

Our final destination today was the impossibly tranquil Oberoi Rajvilas. Another oasis of calm in the madness that constitutes an Indian city. Vast grounds are flooded with huge water-lilly ponds surrounding an ancient hindu temple.